We know Bologna for its historical heritage, educational excellence, and rich culinary traditions. However, I feel that we need to uncover a bit more about another side of Bologna. Besides the tourist facade of the town, there is a hidden layer of social dynamics and historical events that shaped the character of Bologna. And Bologna is a town with a distinctive character!
Bologna is a town of freedom, alternative culture, and protest. You can feel this spirit on every corner, see it in the street art, hear it in the local music, and experience it in the middle of a street demonstration, be it for gender equality or a political protest.
Bologna has become a center of progressive activism and social movements for two main reasons:
- It hosts the oldest university in the Western world. It is clear that Bologna, being one of the main educational centers not only in Italy but in the whole of Europe, has been a magnet for the brightest people on the continent for almost a thousand years. There is an obvious correlation between the level of education and liberal thoughts. Throughout history, revolutionary leaders considered student communities to be one of the most dynamic politically active social groups.
- Historical prevalence of leftist ideas. During World War II, communist partisans were active in the resistance movement against fascist rule in Italy. Bologna was a center of anti-fascist resistance, with communist-led partisan groups playing a crucial role in fighting against the German occupation and the fascist regime of Benito Mussolini. After the war, the communist party gained significant political influence in Italy, particularly in regions like Emilia-Romagna, where Bologna is located. The communist party was involved in post-war reconstruction efforts and played a key role in implementing social and economic reforms, including land redistribution, labor rights, and the expansion of social welfare programs. The communist-led municipal government in Bologna implemented various cultural and educational initiatives aimed at promoting social equality and cultural diversity.
Let me show you an Alternative Bologna. Let’s discover together how to spend an unusual day in Bologna:
1. Bologna Music
If the architecture and art of a town are its face, the musical scene is its soul. While visiting a new town or city, one of the first things I do is find a live music performance. I like exploring new places through music. Therefore, I decided to give you a taste of Bologna’s music scene.
At the very beginning, Bologna struck me as a jazz town, even though the town didn’t give birth to any particularly famous jazzman or jazzwoman. At the same time, in the heart of the Quadrilatero in the center of Bologna, there is a street known as “La strada del Jazz” (English: Jazz Street). In the 1950s, there used to be a disco club owned by Alberto Alberti, who first brought international jazz stars to Bologna and founded the Bologna Jazz Festival.
I said there hasn’t been any particularly famous jazzman from Bologna. It is only partially true. If you asked who was one of the most famous musicians from Bologna, that’s Lucio Dalla. He started his career as a jazz musician and then became a singer/songwriter experimenting with styles from opera to pop. He is the essence of Bologna’s music scene – sorrowful yet sweet at the same time.
Where to listen to Jazz Music in Bologna:
Sghetto Club
The Sghetto Club positions itself as a local social hub promoting the local musical culture. Although it is mostly associated with jazz music, it promotes various music styles, offering a concert platform for local bands, DJs, and international musicians. The Sghetto Club opens its space for concerts, jam sessions, DJ sets, and workshops, promoting the diffusion of culture and gender equality. Check the events schedule here.
Camera Jazz Club
The Camera Jazz Club is located in Palazzo Isolani, a historical building in Piazza Santo Stefano, the city center of Bologna. It is a proper jazz club, as its name suggests, with a hospitable and warm environment. Most of the local bands are made up of university students. The club hosts both national and international jazz bands. Check the events schedule here.
Bravo Caffè
Bravo Caffe offers a unique experience: a combination of delicious local cuisine and great jazz, soul, and funk music performances. The venue features both international and local artists from a variety of backgrounds. Check the events schedule here.
Alternative music scene of Bologna
The alternative music scene in Bologna is dominated by student bands. While in England during the 1970s, dominated punk, in Bologna, this period is remembered mostly for student protests and the “Lotta Continua” movement (English: continuous fight), a revolutionary extreme left formation of workerist orientation. From this political climate emerged local bands like Gaznevada, Skiantos, and Confusional Quartet.
In the early 1980s, RAF Punk pioneered anarcho-punk in Bologna. They founded the label Attack Punk Records. Steno, the bassist from RAF Punk, later formed Nabat, Italy’s Skinhead legends. He now manages record studios in Bologna.
In the early 1990s, during the development of the independent music scene, Bologna gave rise to the post-rock band Massimo Volume. Their music blends atmospheric guitars and drums with spoken lyrics, narrating stories of others’ lives.
Another noteworthy more recent band from Bologna is His Clancyness. They are considered to be one of Italy’s finest indie bands.
Where to attend an alternative music concert in Bologna:
Freakout Club
Freakout Club is an alternative music venue in Bologna that has existed since 2012. They position themselves as a strictly underground live music club that features only original live music and not tribute bands. The genres of music you can expect there: Hardcore, Punk, RnR, Soul, Powerpop, Swing, Surf, Garage, Metal, Thrash, Death, Black, Noise, and Impro. Check the events schedule here.
Covo Club
Covo Club is a legendary live music venue in Bologna featuring local and international indie groups since 1980. Some of the renowned international bands have performed here at the beginning of their careers like Franz Ferdinand, The XX, Cigarettes After Sex, Idles, Gossip, The Libertines, The Mars Volta, and many others. The club is located in the center of Casalone Park in the San Donnino area and inside one of the oldest buildings in the entire neighborhood. Check the events schedule here.
Locomotiv Club
Locomotive Club is more than a club, it is a platform that hosts various types of cultural events, concerts, festivals, and dance parties. It has its own recording studio and label. Check the events schedule here.
2. Bologna Cinema
To my surprise, Bologna is not only a town of music, but it is also a center of cinema. Bologna hosts a unique and one of the world’s most prestigious film festivals, “Il Cinema Ritrovato” (English: rediscovered cinema), dedicated to the rediscovery of rare and classic films. It often features restored versions of masterpieces and hidden gems from all over the world. It attracts cinephiles and industry professionals from around the globe. You can check the program of the new season festival’s program here.
Cinema Lumière
While discussing cinema culture in Bologna, we cannot overlook the Cinema Lumière. It is a renowned cinema in the town, part of the Cineteca di Bologna, an institution dedicated to the preservation and promotion of film culture.
The Cinema Lumière regularly screens a diverse range of films, including classic movies, contemporary releases, independent films, and international cinema in the original language. It serves as a cultural hub for film enthusiasts, providing a platform to showcase both popular and lesser-known works from around the world. Check the cinema program here.
3. Bologna Art
Street Art
Bologna is known for its vibrant street art scene, with colorful murals and graffiti adorning many walls throughout the city. Of particular interest is certainly Via Pratello where the Galleria D’arte Pubblica Pratello (English: Pratello Public Art Gallery) is located: spread over approximately 600 meters this open-air gallery is definitely worth seeing if you are curious about street art Bolognese.
The shutters of the various bars and shops on Pratello Street as well as the walls of the porticoes have been painted by various street artists.
There are a few other distinctive areas in Bologna known for street art:
- Bolognina: This multicultural neighborhood features several large murals of urban art.
- San Donato, particularly Via Del Lavoro: walking along this avenue, you’ll encounter large walls covered with works by various artists.
Museum of Modern Art of Bologna (Mambo)
Mambo offers a refreshing change from the more traditional art museums in the city. It showcases contemporary art in all its forms, including installations, performances, and multimedia exhibits, providing a dynamic and thought-provoking experience. Check the ongoing exhibitions here.
Opening hours: 2.00 pm – 7.00 pm on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. 10.00 am – 7.00 pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Closed on Sundays
Ticket price: 6 €
MAST Foundation
MAST Bologna, also known as Manifattura di Arti, Sperimentazione e Tecnologia (English: Manufacture of Arts, Experimentation, and Technology), is a cultural center. It serves as a hub for artistic experimentation, technological innovation, and cultural exchange. MAST aims to foster interdisciplinary collaboration between artists, scientists, researchers, and technologists. It seeks to explore the intersection of art, science, and technology through exhibitions, workshops, residencies, and educational programs.
MAST hosts exhibitions, performances, talks, and workshops that showcase innovative artistic projects and technological advancements. It provides a platform for both established and emerging artists to present their work and engage with audiences. Check here for ongoing events and exhibitions.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am – 7:00 pm.
Ticket price: free
Summary
I hope this alternative guide to Bologna will help you uncover the hidden layers of this amazing town. It takes time to understand the true nature of a town, its culture, and its people. I’ve done my best to shed some light on the music and artistic scene of Bologna, a town of protest and activism, a town of free-spirited people.
Don’t forget to check out our culinary guide to Bologna to complete your experience while here!
Also check out our classic itinerary in Bologna
Bologna Bologna might not be the first city that comes to mind when you consider a visit to Italy, but let me tell you, once you’ve experienced Bologna, the only regret you’ll have is not having spent more time
Очень интересно. Оказывается я была в Болоньи и даже половины не увидела из того, чем богат город. Обязательно воспользуюсь вашим путеводителем ребята по культурным местам Болоньи. Благодарю Марта и Олег за интересную и очень полезную информацию. Жду интересных статей об Италии.